Move Over Parmesan, It’s Pecorino Romano PDO Season

Of all mankind’s great culinary achievements — sliced bread, freezers, gin martinis — few triumphs have proved quite so remarkable as…cheese. ‘Tis the premiere gourmet indulgence; the ideal finishing touch on any given dish; a course within itself. A welcome amendment to lunch, dinner, dessert, even breakfast.

That said, for all of the scene-ier varieties of cheese spamming our Instagram feeds at present (think: burrata, baked brie, whipped feta), there are few varieties that are as tasty, reliable, and versatile as your traditional European Pecorino Romano PDO. Often mentioned in the same breath as Parmesan, the hard, nutty white cheese has a character all its own: salty, tangy, sometimes even gamey. “Pecorino Romano PDO has a really incredible texture. It can have a rock-like appearance, but once opened, it crumbles or chunks perfectly,” says Kathleen Serino, certified cheese monger and trainer/curriculum manager at the iconic Murray’s Cheese (which is to say, she teaches other cheesemongers how to…mong). “It can be rich, grassy, so many other things.”

With that in mind, we’re breaking down everything you need to know about the long lauded Pecorino Romano PDO, according to proper experts — from pairing notes, and production intel, to serviceable advice on selecting the stuff at your local grocer. Read it and, well, bon appetit. 

What does Pecorino Romano PDO taste like? 

Across the board, Pecorino Romano PDO is relatively loud in flavor. The cheese is nut-forward, rich, grassy and herbaceous, almost tangy. “The general flavor profile is pungent and intense because of the wild sheep milk,” says Dino Borri, global VP of Eataly. ”Of course, the more aged a Pecorino Romano cheese is, the more intense and salty it will be.”

For Serino, the texture is a key part of your tasting experience, too. “It feels firm and compact at first — and if you nibble on a hunk of it, it becomes a bit powdery in your mouth as it breaks down,” she explains. “It’s also a cheese that is delicately crumbly — you might say it’s ‘friable’ in our industry — making it ideal for grating finely.” 

How (and where) is Pecorino Romano PDO made? 

Technically speaking, Pecorino Romano PDO can only be produced in Europe in the Italian regions of Lazio, Sardinia, and Grosseto province in Tuscany. And while the cheese’s origins allegedly trace back to Rome, according to Serino, most of the production has moved over to Sardinia, where you’ll find ample open space for sheep to graze. “In spite of its Roman reputation, the argument that Pecorino Romano PDO is more Sardinian than Roman is a compelling one,” she notes. 

As for the process, everything begins, of course, with fresh sheep’s milk. “[The sheep’s milk] is either measured, filtered, and processed directly in the raw state, or instead, heated for no more than a few seconds,” Borri notes. “Cheesemongers then add a starter culture called scotta innesto and lamb rennet, and the milk is brought to a curdle. The curds are then broken up into small pieces, cooked, and finally pressed into a round mold to cool.”

Last but not least, those rounds are salted, aged, and stamped with indentations to signify the date of production, the signature of the dairy purveyor, and the PDO label. 

What does a PDO label indicate?

The acronym is short for Protected Designation of Origin, which translates to denominazione di origine protetta in Italian. “It’s a designation meant to signify singularity and specialness,” Serino explains. “Europe cares so much about the quality of ingredients produced within its borders. The region goes to great lengths to protect the geographical areas where the item comes from.” 

Simply put, the signatory marking implies that the cheese in question has met the European standards required in order to be dignified as proper card-carrying Pecorino Romano. Its name is protected — much like, say, Champagne, the likes of which don’t count as such unless it’s produced within the Champagne region of France. “You can produce a Pecorino cheese in other regions, but then it wouldn’t have the DOP designation,” says Borri.

How do you go about selecting Pecorino Romano PDO from your local grocery store?

Aside from that trusty PDO label — arguably the first thing you should seek out when shopping for the formaggio — you should also be on the lookout for cheaper or less flavorful imitations, the likes of which will often be titled just Romano.

“You should also verify ‘rennet’ as an ingredient,” says Serino. “And when in doubt, ask your monger, or look at the rind and search for the distinct markings that are imprinted on the wheels – these are telltale signs of true Pecorino Romano.”

What should you pair with Pecorino Romano PDO? 

While the cheese is uniquely oily, hard, and nutty, it pairs brilliantly with a wildly versatile range of flavors. For dessert, it plays well with fresh honeycomb and leathery dried fruits like figs, prunes, or perhaps spirit-marinated raisins. More traditionally, however, it might be found atop a pasta, in a traditional red sauce. “[Pecorino Romano PDO] is delicious when blended with other fresh & aged Italian cheeses like ricotta, mascarpone, or Parmigiano Reggiano,” says Serino. “And it’s also excellent with tomatoes and other seasonal vegetables, beef, cured meat, beans, citrus, stews, and more.” She also recommends using the stuff with classic Roman pastas —  Cacio e Pepe, Amatriciana, Carbonara — as well as pesto (50/50 with Parmigiano Reggiano). “Can confirm it’s delicious in fondue if you consider yourself an expert at successfully making melty, emulsified cheese dips,” she adds. 

In the more potable category, you might try pairing it with a Sardinian wine like Cannonau or a jammy, Italian red (think: Barbaresco or Sangiovese). “Typically, it pairs very well with a strong, intense red wine, as well as with some sparkling wines. That said, if you are in one of the regions in which Pecorino Romano PDO is produced, be sure to pair it with a local DOC or DOCG wine,” suggests Borri — an insignia for wine that operates much like a PDO label. 

What’s the difference between Pecorino Romano PDO and Parmigiano Reggiano PDO? 

“In two words: milk type. Pecorino Romano PDO is made with sheep’s milk and Parmiagiano Reggiano PDO is made with cow’s milk,” says Serino. “‘Pec-’ is a dead giveaway that you’re talking about a sheep cheese. ‘Parm-’ is in reference to the area of Parma in Emilia Romagna. Both are from differing regions of origin, with different wheel shapes, affinages, and recipes or techniques for cheesemaking.” 

As for flavor, you’ll find that Parmigiano Reggiano PDO has a much milder, more delicate taste, while Pecorino Romano PDO tends to offer more detectable flavor that’s tangier and more acute. “The different milks result in different production methods for each cheese, as well as a very different taste,” adds Borri. “Additionally, Pecorino Romano PDO is often served younger than Parmigiano Reggiano PDO.”

Funded by the European Union. Views and opinions expressed are however those of the author(s) only and do not necessarily reflect those of the European Union or of the granting authority. Neither the European Union nor the granting authority can be held responsible for them.