Life

The Jamaica That Tourists Don’t See, in Photos

A young child hides behind an adult as they stand at the front door of their yellow house.

There are different ways of seeing. A place seen through the eyes of a tourist, for instance, is radically different to what is seen through the eyes of a local. While the tourist glances hungrily in search of novelty, entertainment and two-for-one mojito deals, the local sees the daily rhythms, consistencies, characters and carry-ons that make a place tick.

For the last six years, Nathaniel Bailey has been travelling back and forth between north west London, where he lives, and Jamaica, where his family hails from, to work on an ongoing photo project called “Parish Walls”. He wants to tell a story that goes beyond the touristic vision of Jamaica – of white sandy beaches, sparkling blue seas and popping nightlife – and gestures at something deeper.

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“‘Parish Walls’ covers the breadth of everyday life outside of the common tourist gaze that many photographers travelling to the Caribbean often create for,” says Bailey. The initial aim, he says, “was to open doors and present a side of Jamaica that is rarely seen, however the journey became somewhat of a personal exploration; forging and developing my own connection to the island my family hail from, which in turn is informing my identity as a young black man in Great Britain.”

He focuses his lens on the parishes of Saint Mary, Saint Thomas, Saint Ann, Portland and Kingston, and captures the people that live there. Some in posed portraits, others in lively action shots, like the men making cement, the women serving in a shop or the hands descaling a fish over a silver sink.

“One standout individual is Belty, known for selling belts,” says Bailey. “Amidst the bustling Morant Bay Market, his presence, voice and charisma left a lasting mark on me during the portrait session. This image [below of him in the white vest] offers a glimpse into his captivating character.”

View a selection of photos from Bailey’s project below.

A man stands on a tree and poses for a photo, holding a lighter and rollie.
Birdman. ​Photo: Nathaniel Bailey
A man digs sand from a beach and fills a wheelbarrow for cement mixing.
​Photo: Nathaniel Bailey
An older woman poses with her three daughters, all wearing dresses, outside a pink house.
Mother and daughters. ​Photo: Nathaniel Bailey
A man climbs a tree and pokes at something above him with a bamboo pole.
Wally in the tree. ​Photo: Nathaniel Bailey
A person's hands descale a fish over a dirty silver sink.
​Photo: Nathaniel Bailey
A man stands topless in the garden next to a house and a bright blue water butt.
​Photo: Nathaniel Bailey
A woman stands at the counter in a shop and serves goods in a black plastic bag.
​Photo: Nathaniel Bailey
A man rides on a red motorbike with a bag of crops in his lap.
​Photo: Nathaniel Bailey
A man in a white vest smokes and looks down his nose at the camera, with spectacles balanced on his forehead.
​Photo: Nathaniel Bailey